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How To

Sew Chiffon Top

We’re back to go over putting together the matching sheer top to our sooo cute leggings we sewed up last week! This is the final part of our 3 part series where we discussed the different types of directional prints you can create, sewing up leggings with your non-directional print, and now the final part of being able to use that print on something different like a sheer top.

  1. Directional Prints
  2. Sewing Leggings
  3. Sewing a sheer top

 

Supplies:

  • 2yds chiffon
  • silk/satin pins
  • microtex needles size 80
  • iron and ironing board
  • Simplicity Pattern 8424
  • (Optional) Straight Stitch plate for sewing machine
  • (Optional) Unflavored Gelatin, pot, bowl, measuring cups,
  • (Optional) Fat Quarter -1yd of alternative fabric

 

Optional Step: Stabilizing the Fabric for Easier Cutting & Sewing

So I know you’re probably wondering what in the world are we using the gelatin for!?!?!?!?? We know… It sounds weird but it helps! Chiffon can be a tricky fabric to work with as it can be very shifty and a bit tedious to sew. So what we’re going to do is temporarily stiffen the fabric to help reduce its shifty ways!

Just follow this super simple tutorial on creating your gelatin mix, let dry and you’re ready for easy sewing. Once done sewing up your project just throw it in the wash to remove your gelatin.

 

Optional Step: Altering Pattern

We decided to adjust the pattern a bit and add a design to the center of the front of our top.  To do that, what we did was draw onto our pattern piece where we wanted our new center panel, fold the pattern along this line and traced onto our fabric. Remember when cutting out your fabric add 1/2in to each side of the pattern where you are folding, this is the seam allowance for your new center panel that you are adding.

 

Cutting:

Now to cut the chiffon! Find the cutting layout in the instruction of your pattern and use as a guide. Cut two 1 yd sections and stack them on top of each other right-sides together. Now using the illustrations below layout your pattern pieces and cut

(Optional Step) After measuring out how big our center panel will be, we figured out that we would be able to order our second print on a fat quarter (fat quarter in chiffon is 28″X18″). Lay your pattern on your fabric and trace out your center section.

Assembling The Top:

We will be using a french seam to assemble our top as it is a strong seam that will also conceal the raw edges for our fabric.

To create a french seam, follow the instructions below

Using a french seam, you will sew your upper sleeve, underarms and the center front seams if you have opted to do this step.

 

Neckline:

You will also need to cut out enough bias binding to finish off the neckline of your top, cut at 1 1/8”. We were able to cut about 5-6 strips and had plenty to work with.

 

Sew binding strips together

Press binding in half. Now use your new fold as a guideline to fold your edges to the center of your binding strip. Your single fold bias strip is ready for you to apply to your neckline.

First stay stitch or baste your neckline to keep it from stretching out when you start applying your binding.

Basting- a stitch elongated to its longest setting so that it may be easier to take out at a later time or a loose temporary stitch.

 

Next step, place your binding right-sides together with your neckline, start stitching ½” from the tail of the bias tape, and stitch into the first fold closest to the raw edge of your neckline. When you are coming back around to where you started stitching, fold the tail of the beginning of your bias tape out of the way and sew right up to where your first stitch is.

 

Cut excess bias tape off 1” from the end of stitching and press both tails going in the same direction. Stitch bias tape ends together.

Press new seam open

Fold the raw edge down 1/4″, then fold entire bias tape to the inside of the neckline. Topstitch lower edge into place.

Topstitching single fold bias tape

 

Finishing Your Sleeves and Hemming:

If you have a straight stitch plate for your machine and haven’t already attached it to your machine, now may be the time to do so. A cheap alternative is to place a piece of masking tape over the stitch hole and letting the needle pierce the tape a few times to create a small hole for the stitching to pass through. This will help the fabric not get pulled under the stitch plate while sewing.

 

Fold up the cuff of your sleeve 1/4” and topstitch 1/8” from the folded edge all the way around. Once done, if there is more than 1/8” of fabric between your stitch line and the raw edge, trim down very closely to stitches without cutting holes in your fabric or stitching. Now, roll your stitched edge up ¼” and topstitch again.

Repeat steps for other sleeve and hem.

And that’s it!

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